the principles of Permaculture

The first recorded modern practice of permaculture as a systematic method was by Austrian farmer Sepp Holzer in the 1960s, but the method was scientifically developed by Australians Bill Mollison and David Holmgren and their associates during the 1970s in a series of publications.
The word permaculture is described by Mollison as a portmanteau of permanent agriculture, and permanent culture.
The intent is that, by training individuals in a core set of design principles, those individuals can design their own environments and build increasingly self-sufficient human settlements — ones that reduce society's reliance on industrial systems of production and distribution that Mollison identified as fundamentally and systematically destroying Earth's ecosystems.(Wikipedia) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Permaculture

There are terms in permaculture: permaculture principles and permaculture ethics. (The ethics are sometimes referred to as principles as well). I'll try and keep them separate. The ethics of permaculture are at the centre of permaculture philosophy and are broad guidelines of how we should behave towards the earth and towards each other. The permaculture principles, or permaculture design principles, are the guidelines that you follow when you design a permaculture garden or bigger permaculture system.

Principles of Permaculture – The Ethics

These are the three basic ethics at the core of permaculture and are fairly simple and so don't need much explanation:

They are of the earth: in everyday language you probably more often hear "protect or save the environment". It means the same thing basically: using renewable resources, recycling, minimising waste, building up soils rather than depleting them, conserving water and so on. Anybody who aims to do that is following that first permaculture principle or ethic.

Care of the people: this means really that you should simply look after yourself and after others. Health and well-being are very important, so to are learning, a sense of belonging, communication, trust and above all respect. All people should have access to what they need to live a safe and healthy life.

Fair share: it's what your mum tried to teach you all those years ago. Only take what you need and share the rest. This permaculture ethic focuses on things like co-operation, networking, contributing to the community and on distributing resources and wealth.

But it also looks at the reduction of consumerism and requires you to rethink your current ideas about growth and development. Sometimes this principle is written as "accepting limits to population and consumption". We can't go on consuming like we do without putting more thought into where things come from, and how we can produce them sustainably, so they will still be available tomorrow.

Permaculture teaches us how to observe nature, to understand our environment and so become more ecologically aware and responsible. The philosophy behind permaculture also looks at the global context, it is a big vision. Conservation, careful energy accounting, reducing waste, using "green" resources, recycling, but also a healthy lifestyle, pure and fresh food, clean water and a clean environment to live in... It's all part of permaculture, either as part of the design or as a result of the design.

But the three ethics do not immediately convey the main focus of permaculture: the focus always was and still is on sustainable food production. Permaculture principles are the result of the observation of natural systems. They outline how things work in nature, and how you can apply that to your design. They also tie in with the three ethics listed above.

growing your own organic insecticide!

You may be familiar with the word 'Pyrethrum' from the packaging of many ready-to-use organic insect sprays. However it was once one of the most popular insecticides available until the introduction of modern synthetic insecticides.

This insecticidal chemical is derived from the dried, powdered flowers of the pyrethrum daisy, Tanacetum cinerarifolium, and has been used as early as 1880 as a treatment to control mosquitoes. The active ingredients 'Pyrethrins' are mainly concentrated in the seeds of the flower head, and work by way of a contact insecticide. This means that the insect only has to be touched by the active ingredient to be affected.
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Pyrethrins have a quick knockdown effect on insects, working in some ways like a nerve toxin. With the right dosage insects can be paralyzed in mid flight, but if the dose is too low they will just be knocked out and fly off later on once they've recovered. On food crops pyrethrins can be applied up to one day before harvest because they are quickly destroyed by light and heat. This means that they are not persistent in the environment and this it why pyrethrins have their 'organic' label. Be careful though as Pyrethrins will kill ladybirds, aquatic insects and the preditors that eat them although they do not appear to be harmful to bees.

HOW TO MAKE YOUR PYRETHRUM INSECTICIDE: Pyrethrum daisies are easy to grow in the English garden and are readily available at most good plant retailers. That way - if you have pyrethrum in the garden - you will have the main ingredient conveniently close by when you are ready to make your spray. The importance of this becomes clear when you realise how quickly the active ingredient within the pyrethrum flower will degrade..
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The concentration of pyrethrums is at its peak when the flowers are in full bloom, this is recognised as the time when the first row of florets on the central disk opens - up until the time that all the florets are open. Pick the flowers in full bloom and then hang them in a dark sheltered spot to dry.
Traditionally, in Japan, the flowers were harvested with their stems intact, and hung upside down in water for between 24 to 48 hours before drying. The reason for this process is that it can increases the pyrethrin levels. Once dry, crush the flowers into a powder using a mortar and pestle or a blender. The finer the powder is the more effective it will be against insects, but it will deteriorate more rapidly.

To apply as an insecticidal dust, simply apply the dried and crushed flowers on to the leaves of plants that require its protection.

To use as a spray, soak ten grams of pyrethrum powder into three litres of warm water for three hours, after this it is ready to be sprayed. It is possible to use fresh flowers instead of dried but you will need to use up to four times the amount of planr material to get the same concentration of active ingredient.

The efficiency of pyrethrum can be greatly improved with the addition of other products such as sesame seed oil or washing up liquid. These can be added at a dose of one teaspoon per litre of solution and can increase the effectiveness of your spray up to four times the norm.
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As mentioned before Pyrethrum breaks down quickly after application giving no more than 48 hours of protection ( 12 hours is generally nearer the mark) depending on the concentration of the mixture sprayed. One of the ways that this degradation can be slowed down is to add anti-oxidants such as tannic acid, a chemical found in the bark of several tree species. Even so it will be necessary to reapply after rain.

You may need to experiment with the amount of water your powder is being added to as the concentration of pyrethrins in the dried flowers will be an unknown variable. If your spray does not seem to kill insects, try using use less water next time you make your spray.