Tuesday, May 31, 2011

Corrigans city farm, Blackpool: Using seaweed as a fertilizer in the Garden

Corrigans city farm, Blackpool: Using seaweed as a fertilizer in the Garden: "Using seaweed as a manure or fertilizer is one of the cheapest and most useful organic plant-nourishing agents the organic gardener can lay ..."

Corrigans city farm, Blackpool: Using seaweed as a fertilizer in the Garden

Corrigans city farm, Blackpool: Using seaweed as a fertilizer in the Garden: "Using seaweed as a manure or fertilizer is one of the cheapest and most useful organic plant-nourishing agents the organic gardener can lay ..."

Using seaweed as a fertilizer in the Garden

Using seaweed as a manure or fertilizer is one of the cheapest and most useful organic plant-nourishing agents the organic gardener can lay his or her hands on. In this blog I will try my best to show you why seaweed fertiliser is so good, how to use it and even how to make your own.
(Dingle)

The first real records of seaweed being processed come from China in around 2700 BC. The Chinese and Japanese have been using it for both human and animal consumption ever since. Initially agricultural use was very limited to the use of bulk fresh seaweed as a manure and soil conditioner. In Europe, seaweed has been used for many many centuries. As far back as the Celts, people were gathering up the abundantly available and free weed they found on the seashore and using it to promote healthier, stronger and quicker growing crops. Commercial seaweed fertilizers come in liquid, powdered and granular forms or The liquid varieties can be used both for root and foliage feeding.
Seaweed has an extensive and well-balanced range of beneficial nutrients. And not only is it packed with plant sustenance, the nutrients are easy to get at also. Unlike land plants, seaweed isn’t built from cellulose and so breaks down more rapidly in the compost heap, releasing its goodness and helping to encourage the breakdown of other composted materials.
One of the greatest rewards of seaweed is of course that it is all completely natural, you can use it in your garden completely secure in the knowledge that you aren’t spreading a cocktail of dangerous synthetic chemicals. But there are plenty of other reasons to use it as well:
Seaweed contains complex carbohydrates, (these stimulate microscopic soil fungi and microbes. These little garden helpers increase the availability of soil nutrients and they also play a significant role in defending against soil-based diseases.) The nutrients in seaweed promote early flowering, stronger crops, and increased sugar content in fruit.
Seaweed contains alginic and mannitol  acid both of which acidify the soil and facilitate plants to absorb more essential nutrients.
Seaweed also adds iron to the earth, so plants that like both an acid soil and iron (e.g. gardenias, rhododendrons,  camellias, azaleas etc.) will thrive with the use of seaweed.
The natural plant hormones in seaweed like betaines encourage chlorophyll production, the germination of seeds and the growth of roots.
You can also use seaweed to counter the effects of “transplant shock” whenever you uproot and replant. Use it on cuttings, too, to help them establish themselves more quickly.
Seaweed hormones increase the thickness of plant cell-walls, thereby creating stronger plants with greater structural integrity, pest resistance and frost endurance. (Seaweed extracts contain both amino and modified amino acids and it is thought that these assist the plant to withstand cold.)Seaweed supplies selenium and iodine. The addition of these elements to food crops results in plant foods with higher nutritional value. By weakening nematodes and retarding their ability to breed, seaweed protect plants against attack from this pest.
Making your own Seaweed Fertilizer
If you are lucky enough and have a readily available supply of seaweed, it is a very simple matter to make your own liquid fertiliser, just follow the steps below.
Note: Before you go gathering your seaweed, always check with your local council/authority. Taking seaweed maybe illegal in some areas and could also harm fragile shoreline ecosystems.
  1. Gather your seaweed and place it in a suitable storage vessel, i.e a bin or watertight bags.
  2. Hose it down thoroughly to remove all of salty deposits.
  3. Place the seaweed in a large, topless drum with an equal amount of fresh water.
  4. Allow to sit for 8 weeks, stirring every three or four days.
  5. Decant the resulting(slightly smelly) liquid and store in sealed containers until it is ready to use. 
This liquid is very strong and can burn plants if not diluted well enough. Use 1 cup of the fertiliser to a bucket (10 litres) of water.
And remember that if you want stronger, faster-growing plants that germinate and root more effectively, produce sweeter fruit and higher yields and are more resistant to pests and disease, you can’t go too far wrong with seaweed used as a fertilizer.

Saturday, May 28, 2011

Corrigans city farm, Blackpool: Cultural control of weeds

Corrigans city farm, Blackpool: Cultural control of weeds: "Cultural control covers all activities that are designed to guarantee that the plants get the best possible growing conditions, since the be..."

Monday, May 23, 2011

Corrigans city farm, Blackpool: Basic organic disease prevention

Corrigans city farm, Blackpool: Basic organic disease prevention: "Quite often, people think that there is little or nothing that they can do to control plant disease in organic gardens. With an organic gard..."

Basic organic disease prevention

Quite often, people think that there is little or nothing that they can do to control plant disease in organic gardens. With an organic garden, you can't simply apply synthetic fungicides to eliminate disease problems. However, there's plenty you can do to organically promote and maintain healthy, productive plants.
There is an old saying "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" and is popular in the world of disease control, in both the animal and the plant world. It takes on a real meaning in organic gardening, as many of the disease control methods focus on healthy plants and avoiding diseases.
(aphids on lettuce plant)
The main damage is from insects and what they do apart from eating your plants, is help the spread of viruses. Natural immunity is your plants' only defence. A weak or unhealthy plant is more likely to suffer disease. A strong, healthy plant can defend itself.
Your first line of defence against pests and diseases is to choose plants with the most genetic potential for self-defence. Always plant more seed than you need; select the strongest and cull the weakest. Do this at the seedling stage and again when planting out into your garden beds.
 If you have reason to expect a disease to appear, like when late blight is in the neighbourhood, or if inspections turn up the first signs of a disease such as powdery mildew, then it may be necessary to apply a protectant material to prevent any crop loss.
There are quite a few copper and sulfur-based fungicides which are approved for organic use, and they are relatively inexpensive and pose a minimal environmental risk. Copper fungicides have some activity against a wide range of fungi and bacteria, but their effectiveness is very limited, and under high disease pressure, probably will not provide first-rate control. Sulfur products also offer some control of many pathogens, but they usually are good for managing only some diseases such as powdery mildew. Both copper and sulfur can burn sensitive crops, so precaution is advised
(powdery mildew on a cabbage)

Organically-approved bicarbonate fungicides have now recently become available. Bicarbonates have demonstrated good protection against powdery mildew and a few other diseases. Peroxide-type materials are also available for general suppression of diseases on plant surfaces.
The other organic options for disease restraint are products that contain microbes or their by-products, including species of Trichoderma, Bacillus, and other beneficial organisms. For the best results possible with these materials, proper application and timing are essential. Most materials do not perform well if the disease is established, so applications should be made prior to infection. As mentioned above "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.”

Finally remember no genetic inheritance will reach its full potential without the right nutrition. Well cared for plants can fend off most diseases themselves. Try not to overindulge with water-soluble fertilizers. If your fertilizer is very Nitrogen-rich, plants can put on lots of new growth and appear to be healthy and doing well. However, without the other nutrients which are necessary to construct healthy new cells, this new growth can be made up of thin-walled, weak cells that are excessively vulnerable to pests (particularly sap-suckers like aphids) and diseases (particularly fungus diseases). Malnourished plants succumb to diseases that healthy plants hardly notice.

Micronutrients probably perform something like the equivalent function in a plant's diet that vitamins do in a humans diet. A great remedy for a number of plant ailments, especially aphids, is a good dose of seaweed brew. (Seaweed left to rot down naturally and the liquid collected and applied as a feed).
It doesn't kill the pest, but (probably because it is so rich in micronutrients) it increases resistance to the point where the pest is irrelevant.

Sunday, May 15, 2011

Corrigans city farm, Blackpool: A few beneficial insects

Corrigans city farm, Blackpool: A few beneficial insects: "You should Plant a variety of flowers to help encourage insects into the garden. We all know how important companion planting is in the vege..."

A few beneficial insects

You should Plant a variety of flowers to help encourage insects into the garden. We all know how important companion planting is in the vegetable garden.  Many predators and parasites feed on pollen and nectar or use flowers to supplement their food supply if they run low on pests. Plants in the carrot family and mustard family are especially attractive to beneficial insects. Use plenty of plants with small flowers such as sweet alyssum, dill, fennel, garlic chives, lovage, coriander and white lace flower (A cultivated version of Queen Anne's Lace). Other popular plants for beneficial insects include: French marigolds, coneflower, coreopsis, cosmos, tansy, yarrow, goldenrod, sunflowers, yellow alyssum, sweet clover, buckwheat or hairy vetch. Let a few of the broccoli plants flower, the yellow flowers are irresistible.
One of the best ways I think to control common pests in your garden is to support their natural enemies. Planting pollen and nectar rich plants, and providing protection for these beneficial insects, is a basic principle of organic gardening, and a way to further increase the ecological diversity of your yard. I have listed the most common beneficial insects along with tips on attracting them to your Garden.  
Ladybirds:
 The familiar round, orange spotted ladybug is just one of more than 400 species of lady beetles found in Europe and North America. Most ladybird adults and larvae feed on aphids and other soft-bodied insects. Adults are attracted to flower nectar and pollen, which they must eat before they are able to  reproduce. 
Lacewings:
 Pale green or brown lacewing adults have distinctive large, veined wings and feed mainly on flower nectar. Lacewing larvae, however, are voracious predators that feed on aphids, thrips, scales, moth eggs, small caterpillars and mites. 
Hover Flies:
 The adults look like small bees with striped abdomens; the grayish or greenish slug- like larvae have pointed heads. Flower flies are attracted to flowers to feed on nectar and pollen. The larvae feed on aphids in tight places where other good bugs can't go, and are especially helpful in early spring, before other beneficial insects are active. Flower flies also pollinate strawberries and raspberries, producing larger fruits and higher yields.   
Ground beetles:
 Large, long-legged, shiny blue-black or brown beetles that hide under rocks and logs during the day, and are fast-moving when disturbed. They feed on slugs, snails, cutworms, root maggots. Attract them by providing perennial ground covers, stones, or logs.
Hunting and parasitic wasps:
 (These are more suited to greenhouse conditions here in Ireland) There are hundreds of species of wasps, including many that are so tiny you can barely see them. The one most people are familiar with is the encarsia formosa. These mini-wasps often attack the eggs of pests, and are one of the most important insect groups that provide control of garden pests. They can be attracted by growing by pollen and nectar plants. 
Spiders:
 All spiders feed on insects and are very important in preventing pest outbreaks. The spiders normally found in gardens do not move indoors, nor are they poisonous. Permanent perennial plantings and straw mulches will provide shelter and dramatically increase spider populations in vegetable gardens. 
(the pictures were downloaded from the web) Andy


Corrigans city farm, Blackpool: Corrigans city farm, Blackpool: Bord Gais 2011 Soc...

Corrigans city farm, Blackpool: Corrigans city farm, Blackpool: Bord Gais 2011 Soc...: "Corrigans city farm, Blackpool: Bord Gais 2011 Social Media Awards nominee"

Corrigans city farm, Blackpool: Bord Gais 2011 Social Media Awards nominee

Corrigans city farm, Blackpool: Bord Gais 2011 Social Media Awards nominee

Bord Gais 2011 Social Media Awards nominee

I am thrilled and delighted that th Corrigans city farm, Blackpool face book page has been nominated in the 2011 Social media awards, a great honour, new blog to follow later, Andy

Tuesday, May 10, 2011

Corrigans city farm, Blackpool: Cultural control of weeds

Corrigans city farm, Blackpool: Cultural control of weeds: "Cultural control covers all activities that are designed to guarantee that the plants get the best possible growing conditions, since the be..."

Cultural control of weeds

Cultural control covers all activities that are designed to guarantee that the plants get the best possible growing conditions, since the best safeguard against many problems, especially physiological ones, is to ensure that plants are healthy. Cultural control is by no means new. It is only over the last fifty years that the use of chemicals has developed to such an extent, that some traditional practices have been abandoned.
Cultural control is a process where land is managed to guarantee good conditions with sustained use. If the land (soil, plants, and ecosystem) has been damaged and is "unhealthy" it is easier for invasive species to move in. Damage can occur by natural disaster (flood, fire), recreation (camping, off road vehicles), over-grazing, or farming. This control method is most often practiced on agriculture-based lands (cropland, pasture, and grazing land), but can also be used in gardens, parks, and our native woodlands.
 Cultural control combine parts of the other control methods, but focuses more on improving the "wellbeing" of the native plants. If the native plants are healthy, it is harder for a weed to become established. If a weed does become established, the native plants are better able to compete and suppress the weed's spread.
 The amount of use that an area of land receives must be monitored to prevent damage. For example, both recreation and grazing take place on much of our pasturelands and forests. Each of these land uses can cause serious damage if not controlled. The impacts and damage caused to the land depend on:
 when it is used
where it is used
how long it is used
how often it is used
how many are using the land


Removal by rotovating or digging
On uncultivated ground this is most probably the only option, if digging is used then the weeds can be buried, and that will kill most annual weeds, although not all of there seeds, Perrenial weeds especially deep rooted ones such as dandilions, will probably innevitably survive, some such as the afore mentioned have the ability to regenerate from the smallest of pieces left in the soil, another is ground elder and bind weed.

Method
Advantages
Disadvantages
Hand-pulling
Highly specific
Damage to other plants is low
Minimal equipment cost
Anyone can do it
Labor intensive: most expensive form of weed control
No residual control
Damaged weeds can recover
• Doesn't kill most perennial weeds
Tillage: most common
Effective against a wide variety of weeds
Fast
Can only be used in crops, pastures, and some rangeland
Loss of moisture
No residual control
Increased soil erosion
Mixes seeds in soil
• Doesn't kill most perennial weeds
Mowing or Chopping
Reduced seed production
Deplete root reserve
Can kill a few plants
Not effective at killing many weeds
Has little effect on low growing plants
Burning, Heat,
or Electrocute
Fire is a natural disturbance that can revitalize some native plants
• Heating soil or manure will sterilize the seeds. For gardens or nurseries.
Fire can open up new areas for weed invasion
Removes all vegetation (non-selective)
• Doesn't kill most perennial weeds


Weeding and hand hoeing
These are the traditional methods of control and are still the most effective on cultivated ground and around plants, hoeing and hand weeding should be carried out on a regular basis whilst the weeds are small and before they seed.

Mulching
This is a good option to use.Inorganic mulches such as polythene and stone chippinggs are particularly good at stopping weeds, bark chippings can also look quite atractive in an ornamental garden situation, Garden compost is best used or well rotted manure in a vegetable garden situation applyed atleast 4 inches deep, it retains moisture which means less watering, and suppresses the weeds,
Ground cover planting? intercropping
Ground cover plants can be employed in an ornamental garden although, and this is important, the ground should be totally weeded before hand, In the vegetable garden situation, close planting and intercropping can reduce and inhibit weed growth greatly by shading the ground

The use of mechanical and physical control really depends upon the type of weed and its location. Small patches of weeds can be hand-pulled and dug up, while larger populations make mowing or burning a better option. In other cases, regrowth from deep perennial roots may make mechanical and physical methods altogether ineffective.

Thursday, May 5, 2011

Corrigans city farm, Blackpool: Companion planting

Corrigans city farm, Blackpool: Companion planting: "Companion planting Definition: The cultivation of certain kinds of plants together in the same area, especially if one species will benefit ..."

Wednesday, May 4, 2011

Corrigans city farm, Blackpool: Companion planting

Corrigans city farm, Blackpool: Companion planting: "Companion planting Definition: The cultivation of certain kinds of plants together in the same area, especially if one species will benefit ..."

Companion planting

Companion planting Definition:
The cultivation of certain kinds of plants together in the same area, especially if one species will benefit from another, as planting an insect-repellent plant in a vegetable garden.


Organic gardeners endeavour to achieve a balance in their gardens so that they don't require chemicals for pest or disease control. Companion planting can play a significant role in assisting with pest control. It's a methodology that has more to do with observation than science, but it does seem to work. Some combinations work because
of scents they use to repel insects, others work because they attract good insects.

A number of plants have substances in their leaves, flowers and roots that attract or repel insects.  When you are determined to grow organic it is very central to attract beneficial insects to your garden.   To attract the flies you could plant dill, parsley, fennel or buckwheat, sweet clover, goldenrod, wild carrot or amaranth.  Other times repelling a certain insect will be the chosen means of attack.  Tansy (fever few), nasturtiums or borage will repel certain pests.  When planning your garden, take some time to think about the layout of your garden to incorporate some of the companion planting ideas.
Below is a list of good companion plants:
Alyssum, Sweet - Attracts hover flies which eat aphids.
Anise – Attracts predatory wasps, which prey on aphids and it is also said to repel aphids.  Improves growth of any plants growing near it.
Bachelor's Buttons - This plant has nectar high in sugar content so it is very attractive to hover flies, ladybirds, lacewings, and beneficial wasps.
Basil - A good companion with tomatoes; basil improves their flavor and growth and also repels flies and mosquitoes. Keep basil away from Rue.
Bay Leaf - Put a fresh bay leaf in your storage container of beans and grain it will repel weevils and moths.   A good mixture to add in your garden would be bay leaves, cayenne pepper, tansy and peppermint for a insecticidal effect.
Beans – Beans will enrich the soil by ‘fixing nitrogen.’  Legumes (beans and peas included) add nitrogen to the soil.
Bee Balm - Plant with tomatoes to improve their growth and flavor.
Beets - Beets add minerals to the soil.  Good companions would be lettuce, onions and brassicas.
Borage - Plant with tomatoes, squash and strawberries; repels tomato hornworm.  Great for attracting bees and more than 100 beneficial insects.  Borage may benefit plants growing with it by increasing resistance to pests and disease.  Borage will self-seed.
Brassicas – Brassicas are good neighbors to chamomile, peppermint, dill, sage, and rosemary.  Some brassicas are broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, kale and Brussels sprouts.
Buckwheat – Referred to once as, “organic Round Up,” because of its quick growth it smothers weeds, even thistle and burdock.  Buckwheat accumulates calcium, and attracts bees and hoverflies.
Caraway - if you have hard, compacted soil plant caraway to help loosen it up.  Also attracts beneficial insects.
Catnip - Repels flea beetle, aphids, Japanese beetles, squash bugs, ants and weevils.  Even mice don’t like to be around it.  Mints are invasive, be careful.
Chamomile - Improves the flavour of cabbage and onions.  Attracts hoverflies and wasps.
Chervil - Radishes will grow better and increase in flavour when planted with chervil.
Chives - Carrots will grow better and improve in flavour when planted with chives.  Repels aphids.
Chrysanthemums – To kill destructive root nematodes (not to be confused with beneficial nematodes) plant C. coccineum type.
Clover – A good cover crop to improve soil.  Also attracts beneficial insects.  There are many different types of clover, each one with qualities that benefit certain conditions.
Coriander - Repels aphids, spider mites and potato beetles and enhances flavour and growth of many vegetables.
Corn - Produces large amounts of pollen to attract beneficial insects.  Sweet corn does well with pumpkins and beans, sometimes referred to as “the three sisters.”  Indians grew beans around the corn to climb up the corn stalks and squash on the ground around the corn; with each one benefiting from the presence of the others.
Daisy - Attracts beneficial insects.
Dill - Cabbage will grow better and stronger when planted with dill but don't plant it near your carrots.  Reported to help control squash bugs.  Swallowtail butterfly caterpillars will eat dill.
Fennel - Attracts beneficial insects that are looking for nectar but can inhibit growth of many plants so plant away from the garden.
Flax - Plant with your potatoes to repel potato bugs.
Garlic - Roses benefit from garlic since it repels aphids.  Repels Japanese beetles and other insects, good for planting near raspberries..
Horseradish - Plant along with your potatoes to keep away potato bugs.  To keep horseradish contained plant in bottomless pots near the potatoes.  Blister Beetles don’t like it either.
Hyssop - Good companion plant to cabbage because it repels cabbage moths. Don’t plants near your radishes though.
Larkspur – Like Four-O’-Clocks, larkspur attracts Japanese Beetles which is also poisonous to them.  Larkspur is poisonous to humans.
Lavender – Deters moths, aphids and fleas.  Used for ages as sachets to keep moths from clothing.
Leeks - Companion for celery and carrots since it enhances flavour and attracts beneficial insects.
Lettuce - Likes to grow with carrots, radishes, beets, broccoli, cabbage, onions and cucumbers.  Planting amongst corn will give shade to the lettuce during the hotter months.
Lovage - Good to grow with most plants since it improves their health and flavour; also attracts beneficial insects.
Marigolds - Plant among your tomatoes to ward off nematodes.  Plant those with a strong scent.  Cucurbits (cucumbers, squash, pumpkins, gourds) will benefit from marigolds planted around them to fight off squash vine borer and cucumber beetle.  Seed heads scattered around them help also.  Beans and cabbage do not grow well around marigolds.
Marjoram - Improves the flavour and increases vigour of all vegetables.
Mint - Repels white cabbage moth and ants. Also improves the health of cabbage and tomatoes.  Helps in controlling ants, rodents, flea beetle, and aphids.  All mints are very invasive.
Nasturtium – Helps control squash bugs, cucumber beetles, and whiteflies.  Use as a trap crop for aphids.  Tasty in salads.
Nettles, Stinging – Spray a “tea” of stinging nettles as an insect control.  Soak 4” of nettles in water, strain and spray.  “Tea” improves health of the plants that are sprayed.
Onions - Repels carrot flies
Ornamental Grasses - Clump forming grasses provide shelter in all seasons for beneficial insects.  Studies have shown dramatic increases in numbers where these grasses are growing.
Parsley – Use as a “tea” for repelling asparagus beetles.  Parsley gone to seed will attract parasitic wasps, which are very beneficial.
Pennyroyal – Deters fleas, mosquitoes, ticks, gnats, flies and chiggers; rub the leaves on your skin.
Peppermint - Deters white cabbage moth, aphids, flea beetles and squash bugs.  Mints are invasive, be careful when introducing into your garden.  A better method for use would be to grow in another location, cut stems and leaves then sprinkle around area you want it's repellent effect.
Peppers, Hot – The roots of hot peppers help prevent root rot and fusarium diseases.  “Tea” from hot peppers helps repel insects.
Petunia – This pretty flower is also beneficial in controlling asparagus beetle, leafhoppers, certain aphids, tomato worms, and Mexican bean beetles.
Radish - Repels cucumber beetles so plant with cucumbers and squash.
Rosemary - Companion plant to beans, cabbage, carrots and sage. Repels cabbage moth, bean beetles and carrot flies.
Rue - Repels Japanese beetles in roses and raspberries.
Sage - Companion plant for broccoli, cauliflower, rosemary, cabbage and carrots. Deters cabbage moth, beetles and carrot flies. Keep away from the cucumbers though.
Summer Savory - Plant with beans and onions to improve their flavour and growth. It deters cabbage moth and bean beetles.
Tansy - Plant with fruit trees, roses and raspberries and cucumbers.  It deters Japanese beetles, stripped cucumber beetles and ants.  Tie a bunch up and hang as a fly repellent.  Tansy can become invasive; be careful about letting it go to seed
Tarragon – Repels many pests, use generously around your garden.
Thyme - Repels cabbage worms, carrot flies and attracts beneficial insects.
Tomatoes grow well with basil or parsley or carrots.
Willow - Willow (including pussy willow) are valuable because they produce pollen early in the spring for provision for beneficial insects.
Wormwood (Artemisia) - When planted as a border it helps keep animals and many bugs out of the garden.  Can improve flavor and enhance growth of plants.